Engraved gems are one of the most beautiful and wondrous art forms to have survived from antiquity. Although small, what these miniature artworks lack in size they certainly make up for in artistry. The highest quality engraved gems for example arguably rival that of vases and sculpture from the Classical world.
Ancient engraved gems can be divided into two categories: intaglios and cameos. An intaglio is carved into a gemstone to create a hollow recessed image. In contrast, a cameo is carved in relief, so the design projects out from the surface of the stone.
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The tradition and technique of gem cutting began some 5,000 years ago in the Near East with the creation of cylinder and stamp seals. Decorations and patterns were engraved into the soft stones of seals, and their designs reveal themselves by being pressed and rolled into damp clay.
Early gems were cut by hand using iron tools such as pointed drills and cutting wheels in conjunction with an abrasive powder from harder stones. There is no evidence to suggest that magnifying lenses were used by gem cutters, which makes this artistic skill even more extraordinary. The difficulty associated with carving gemstones made owning an intaglio in antiquity a mark of status.
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In antiquity engraved gems were carved for use as wax seals and were often set into gold, silver or bronze mounts. High ranking and prominent individuals had their own distinctive intaglios, which were used as personal signatures in order to authenticate and identify letters.
Intaglios however were also important objects of fashion. Carved from colourful precious stones such as amethyst, carnelian, agate, jasper and garnet these stones were worn as evocative pieces of art used to signify the personality and beliefs of the wearer.
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The subjects used for intaglios were varied and diverse. Depictions of gods, heroes, mythological figures and animals were all popular themes. Portraits of particular monarchs are found from the Hellenistic period onwards. Many imperial portraits have survived from the Roman period, including a number of spectacular cameos from the rule of Augustus such as the Gemma Augustea cameo.
Engraved gems were highly prized items in the ancient world that offer modern collectors a window into ancient life, fashion and worship. These beautifully decorative masterpieces demonstrate that the tradition of jewellery collecting is thousands of years old.